It’s the 1970s, and Goa is pulsating with the rhythm of full-moon parties. The air is electric with trance beats and psychedelic vibes, drawing in a crowd of free-spirited wanderers.
This sun-soaked paradise, with its relaxed atmosphere, stunning landscapes, and culturally tolerant ethos, became a haven for the countercultural movement. For the hippies of that era, Goa was more than just a destination – it was a refuge where freedom, self-expression, and unconventional living thrived. Perhaps, it was with their arrival that Goa’s nascent tourism industry got an unintended boost.
Fast forward to 2025, and the narrative has taken a sharp turn. Amid claims that Goa’s tourism has lost the spark that once made it a symbol of escapism and allure, a question looms large: has Goa’s magic truly faded, or is this simply a reflection of changing times and evolving expectations?
The social media debate
The discourse around Goa’s tourism on social media is anything but unanimous. On one side, some share videos of deserted streets, empty beaches, and quiet marketplaces, raising alarms with statements like, “Is it game over for Goa?” On the other, a contrasting narrative emerges, with bustling streets and thriving beach shacks showcasing a seemingly vibrant tourist season. So, who do you believe?
For instance, X user Madhur posted a video of a Goan local shouting at tourists for parking at the wrong spot and stating this is one of the reasons for the decline in tourism in Goa. “This kinda harassment is a major reason behind the decline of tourism in Goa. Yes, the guy shouldn’t have parked there but maybe he saw other cars and thought he also could,” he writes in his tweet.
Adding fuel to the debate, entrepreneur Ramanuj Mukherjee shared data on Goa’s declining tourism numbers over recent years, boldly declaring that it has “gone to the dumps.”
This didn’t sit well with Tourism Minister Rohan Khaunte, who filed a complaint against Mukherjee last month.
The minister, visibly frustrated with what he called “paid influencers,” addressed the controversy during a press conference: “I am not justifying the issues, but at the same time, we need to ensure that a wrong message is not created by someone. Let us amplify the right issues. Let us not disturb Goa with smaller issues when it is a tourism destination.”
Amidst accusations and counter-accusations, the root causes of Goa’s challenges remain elusive. It goes beyond just tourist numbers, “expensive hotel tariffs,” or the “taxi mafia” narrative circulating online. The real reasons shaping Goa’s current reality are far more complex, natural, and nuanced than these oversimplified claims suggest.
“Empty or comparatively empty”
When addressing the narrative of Goa being “empty,” isn’t it subjective? A North Goa resident of three years, who wished to remain anonymous, shares, “In the South, we still see a consistent influx of foreign tourists, especially during the winters. However, these are usually long-term visitors who come for the season.”
His sister chimes in, “First, we need to address the benchmark of ‘empty.’ I was at Martin’s Corner (South Goaeatery) the other day and had to wait for about 30 minutes to find a spot. Now, if that’s what you call empty! We all know that the state has been grappling with overtourism and if this is how things are balancing out, so be it.”
The former further notes, “Tourism in Goa has diversified. Earlier, foreign backpackers dominated the scene. Now, we see a mix of budget domestic tourists and affluent Indian families. Budget tourism—like the so-called ‘minibus tourists’—brings people who often cook their own food or drink on the beaches, contributing less to the economy. On the other hand, affluent tourists spend significantly more and drive up prices, making it harder for locals to enjoy the same spaces. Whether that’s good or bad depends on whom you ask—it’s very subjective.”
Lyndon Alves, a tourism stakeholder, highlights that overtourism is a global issue, but in Goa, it manifests differently. “This is the crowd that spends time complaining and crying, and honestly, that might be a good thing for Goa. Yes, we’ve taken a hit, but maybe it’s for the better. Overtourism of that quality is something we don’t want. Goa’s brand has been spoilt by the lower-level Indian tourists,” Alves tells a media outlet.
He adds, “Upmarket tourism hasn’t recovered well since Covid-19. The reality is that hotels don’t have enough rooms for upmarket tourists because many have prioritised conferences and weddings. The rates that wealthy Indian clients are paying for these events make it unviable for hotels to allocate rooms to charter tourists.”
“It feels like Goa again”
In recent months, Goa has made headlines—but not always for the right reasons. Overtourism has brought with it a host of challenges, from the notorious “taxi mafia” to strained garbage management systems. While efforts are underway to address these issues, a lower tourist influx might actually be a blessing in disguise for the state.
Actor and travel vlogger Shenaz Treasury, currently spending time in Goa, has observed a noticeable difference this season. Having visited the state numerous times for both work and leisure, she shares, “The past few years, Goa was bursting at the seams, and it was not fun. Wrappers on the beach, plastic bottles everywhere, trash piling up, traffic jams galore, and construction ruining the vibe. This year? It feels different. The rubbish tourists—the ones who litter and don’t respect nature—seem to be missing. It feels like old Goa again. Blissful, peaceful, and oh-so-lovely.”
Treasury also notes the shift in the type of visitors this year. “I love Goa this year. The Tourism Board should be thrilled. The trashy tourists have packed their bags, and what’s left is a more refined crowd (well, mostly). It’s giving me the Goa vibes I come back for every single year. I don’t mind paying the extra price if it means keeping trashy tourists who disrespect nature away!”
Is Goa really expensive?
Unlike in the past, travelling to far-off destinations like Thailand, Vietnam, and Sri Lanka has become remarkably easy. For this reason, Goa is now often compared to these destinations in terms of accommodation and food prices, as people are traveling in large numbers. This comparison might seem justified.
The narrative that Goa is expensive—and therefore losing visitors—could hold some truth. So, could this also be an intentional move to restore Goa to its former glory, limiting access to only a select few and cutting out the “trouble-causing lot”? Maybe.
Alves raises a compelling question: “How can a place go down and be expensive at the same time?”
From an economic perspective, there’s a point here. A place being perceived as “not doing well” while costs like hotel accommodations, airfares, and dining soar can be explained by a combination of factors, such as:
- Selective demand: Catering to a niche, high-spending crowd instead of the masses.
- Cost-push inflation: Rising operational costs driving up prices.
- Market positioning: Rebranding as a premium destination, intentionally excluding budget travellers.
- Economic paradox: A destination can face declining visitor satisfaction while prices remain high.
- Speculative pricing: Businesses’ pricing is based on expected demand, not current realities.
Shehnaz Treasury also offers insight: “Yes, Goa is ridiculously expensive now. A room on the beach for Rs 29,000—and it’s not even a 3-star?! No wonder people are flocking to Southeast Asia, Oman, or Baku instead. Makes sense. The NRIs are still here—they can afford it—but the ‘classy foreigners’ Goa was once known for? Barely seen. Instead, there’s a steady stream of Russian, Ukrainian, and Polish tourists.”
The perception of Goa being “cheap” is changing, and this could signal a positive repositioning.
Goa needs to evolve, transform, and how!
When Indian tourists set foot in Goa, a sense of liberation washes over them, and for many, that’s part of the charm. However, some tourists seem to misuse this sense of freedom, engaging in behaviour that can only be described as ridiculous, thinking “yahaan sab chalta hai.” Manish Bhattacharya (name changed), a waiter at a popular Goa restaurant, recounts how groups of young boys often crowd the place—and how he caught them sneaking photos of foreigners.
“I’ve been working here for the last 13 years and have seen all kinds of people. Recently, though, something that I often see—and have objected to several times—is a group of boys secretly photographing foreigners. When I noticed, I took their phone and warned them. They eventually left. But you know what? I think this is one of the reasons foreigners are leaving. They don’t feel safe or protected anymore.”
And there are many more reasons why Goa needs to transform.
Alves argues that smart management, involving all stakeholders, and a clearer understanding of how to reposition Goa’s tourism market—something that should have been done during the Covid-19 pandemic—can still be achieved. The market needs reinvention, with a focus on attracting more family tourism to shift the trend of young people visiting just to drink cheaply.
“What we really need is family entertainment. That’s the biggest untapped segment of tourism worldwide. Right now, we’re getting students with little money and pensioners living off their savings. That isn’t really contributing,” he says.
Reframing Goa’s tourism narrative
Goa’s tourism story is at a crossroads—not the end of its charm but the start of a new identity. The focus now should be on attracting mindful tourists while preserving its culture and character.
By balancing growth with sustainability, Goa can remain a destination that welcomes the world without losing its essence.
In this debate over whether Goa is thriving or fading, let the essence of Goa speak louder than opinions.