Goa tourism down, how Sindhudurg can be the answer to all Goa problems

“Goa chalte hai (Let’s go to Goa)” has been every friends’ group’s dream ever since Bollywood and pop culture turned Goa into the ‘IT place’ and the answer to all life’s dilemmas.

The idea of soaking up the sun on the stunning beaches by day and partying with friends by night has transformed Goa into the ultimate remedy for modern-day woes, whether for Gen Z or millennials searching for a much-needed escape.

This ‘need’ to travel to Goa has increased exponentially since the pandemic, as Indians started ‘revenge travel’. The numbers also show the same. For instance, the number of domestic tourists visiting Goa (India’s smallest state with a population of around 1.6 million) grew from around 5.2 million in 2015 to more than 8.5 million in 2023. Some believe that the actual numbers are even higher. However, foreign tourist arrivals are down by 60 per cent.

With this increase in visitors, the state is now facing severe issues of over-tourism, noise pollution, littering on its beaches, traffic jams, improper garbage disposal, water scarcity and degradation of its fragile ecology. These problems have not only been raised time and again by the locals, but often by the tourists who come here to escape their fast-paced lives.

This problem of overflowing tourists is termed over-tourism, and not only Goa, but hill stations in India, like Mussoorie and Shimla, are also facing the same. This has led people to find forms of travel – anything to escape the crowd. One such way that is becoming quite popular in India is secluded travel, a form of leisure travel.

What is secluded travel?
“Secluded travel” means exactly as it sounds. In simple terms, it means travel experiences that prioritise privacy, tranquillity, and distance from crowds. It’s about seeking out remote or hidden destinations—places where you can immerse yourself in natural surroundings, away from the usual hustle and bustle of tourist spots.

This type of travel often includes stays in off-the-beaten-path lodges, private villas, or small boutique accommodations nestled in nature, such as secluded beaches, mountain retreats, or forest hideaways. This form of travel is perfect for those seeking solitude or just a peaceful escape with family or loved ones, offering a chance to unwind in quiet and often stunningly beautiful environments.

One such destination that is slowly transforming into the ‘secluded’ alternative to Goa is Sindhudurg.

In search of ‘Shambhala’
Shambhala, a Sanskrit word meaning “place of peace” or “place of silence”, also refers to a mythical kingdom in Central Asia, believed to be a haven of enlightenment and spiritual bliss. Inspired to find our own “place of peace”—the essence of secluded travel—we set off from Delhi on a two-and-a-half-hour flight, landing at Manohar International Airport, North Goa. From there, a relaxed two-hour drive through lush, tree-lined roads led us to our retreat.

We arrived at Coco Shambala, tucked away near Parule Village, Bhogwe, Maharashtra. Parule, a serene village spanning just 369 hectares and home to fewer than 10,000 people, offered a refreshing contrast to the typical scenes of Goa. Free from traffic, loud music, and bustling crowds, Parole welcomed us with cleaner air and warm hospitality—a much-needed break from the urban rush.

At the property, we were greeted with a refreshing lemon and curry-leaf drink. Coco Shambala comprises four uniquely named villas, each with its own meaning. We stayed in Varenya, which translates to “excellence and perseverance” in Sanskrit.

The villas are subtly elevated, a thoughtful design choice that respects local laws protecting the natural ground. As Suhas Malewadkar, the F&B manager, shared, “Giles Knapton, the property’s owner, and I took care to ensure we did no harm to the land. Sustainability is a priority in everything we do.”

In line with the eco-conscious spirit, the property was constructed manually to reduce its impact on the environment, allowing the flexibility to dismantle the structures without leaving a footprint.

Coco Shambala embraces both Malvani and Goan culture, sourcing staff and many products from the village or nearby Goa. There’s a variety of activities to enjoy, from traditional pottery to mixology.

On Day One, a local artisan, Baban Kumbhar, taught us pottery techniques passed down through generations. Day Two saw us learning to cook Maharashtrian dishes like kothimbir vadi, varan dal, and bhakri, which we later enjoyed for lunch.

‘A hotel with no reception area’
Coco Shambala stands out for its concept of “a hotel with no reception”.

“We don’t believe in a formal reception area,” Suhas explained, “We prefer that our guests don’t have to come to us for anything.”

This seamless, reception-free experience meant we never needed to leave our villa for check-ins or our meals, as everything was organised from the pre-approved menu provided upon arrival.

Each course here was a feast for the senses, served with sweeping views of the sea right from our villa. Every dish carried a distinct Malvani flair, crafted with locally sourced vegetables and spices.

From lunch on our arrival, where we enjoyed an Italian-inspired poke bowl – a mix of tomato herb rice with basil and garlic-tossed local vegetables to our last day’s dessert, where we were served with a Malvani Chili Chocolate Ganache, topped with kokum sauce, local biscuit crumble, and pomegranate. Each meal offered a taste of the region, making every bite both familiar and unique.

If you’re seeking peace or Shambhala, you may well find it here in Sindhudurg. Whether it’s watching the Arabian Sea, catching glimpses of dolphins if you’re lucky, or taking a leisurely jungle walk, Coco Shambala offers tranquillity in many forms.

What to see in Sindhurg
Sindhudurg is a destination for leisurely escapes, yet it shares Goa’s stunning views of both beaches and mountains. To explore the area, you can ask your villa to arrange a local guide. We ventured through the village with Rarekar Kamlakant, a 62-year-old local staff member who looked no older than forty. He knew every villager, animal, and trail by heart. As we trekked through the forest, he shared how he left the fast-paced life in Mumbai to return to his roots, a move that significantly improved his health, thanks to the cleaner air and simpler diet.

It offers a perfect alternative for those seeking an escape from crowds without sacrificing coastal beauty and vibrant local traditions.

At the heart of Sindhudurg’s attractions is the 17th-century Sindhudurg Fort, built by Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. This impressive sea fort, perched on a rocky island, showcases Maratha engineering and offers panoramic views of the Arabian Sea.

The district is also home to serene beaches like Tarkarli, Malvan, and Devbagh, where crystal-clear waters invite snorkelling, scuba diving, and other water sports.

Beyond its beaches, Sindhudurg’s lush landscapes feature hills, backwaters, and coconut groves and temples, making it a paradise for nature lovers. Dotted with small, picturesque villages like Parule, where we stayed, the region provides a window into traditional Konkani life – a slower, simpler world where the culture is as vibrant as the scenery, a real sense of secluded travel.

Factsheet
Where: Coco Shambhala, near Parole village, Bhogwe, Maharashtra

Nearest airport: Sindhudurg Aiport

Tariff and reservations

Best time to visit: The cooler months from November to February are ideal for visiting Sindhudurg. The weather is pleasant, and perfect for exploring forts, beaches, and scenic landscapes. This season is also ideal for water sports and diving, making it the best time to fully enjoy all that Sindhudurg has to offer.